Wednesday, November 9, 2011

The Coffee Post



Here it is: my philosophy on coffee in America.  I know you've all been waiting for it.

Coffee is a fantastic thing.  Like wine, from a single sip you can taste the soil and climate of the region in which it is grown... and unlike wine, you can drink it in the morning without feeling guilty!  Within just one small cup a discerning tongue can experience the softBut there's a catch.  Just because you CAN taste the true quality of the bean and the integrity of the farmers and the soil where it was grown doesn't mean that you actually will.  And why won't you?

1. Most Americans only see coffee as they see gasoline for their cars.  They need it to keep going, but they don't really notice a difference in quality but they complain constantly about the price.  So what happens?  Companies like Folgers capitalize on offering the cheapest coffee out there.  They don't need quality--they just need quantity.  So they dangle the carrot of granting them business with the farmer who can get the most coffee with the least amount of money.  Who needs integrity/quality when your paycheck is determined by how fast you work for the least amount of money?  And right now, there's a surplus of coffee in the world-- there's heavy competition out there for these poor farmers that are just trying to feed their families.

2. Your barista has NO IDEA what he is doing.  Most baristas out there (and I've seen my share of them) get trained like this: "Put this and this in that cup and put a lid on it and call it a 'Double-tall nonfat wet cappuccino.'"  They don't know WHY.  They don't understand what a good shot is supposed to taste like, or worse, THEY DON'T EVEN LIKE COFFEE.  Sigh.  This is probably the most frustrating thing for me.  Why can't these people work for Verizon or Dairy Queen (products they use) so they can practice what they preach?

So, where do you fit in to all this?

YOU, my friend, have more power over these coffee farmer's lives and communities than you think.  While I was with Starbucks (snicker snicker, yeah yeah, I know) they showed me that some of the farmers that they had partnerships with really had the chance to build a better life for themselves and their families, while others changed their entire city.  Starbucks (and other coffee purveyors like Peets and Counter Culture and Stumptown) invest in their coffee farmers, giving them personal loans and contracts that say "we will be with you through the storm" that allow farmers the freedom to not wonder if they should sell out to the bigger chains, but rather to strive for excellence and environmentally friendly practices and reinvesting in their own communities by building schools, hospitals, and the like.  All it costs YOU is to do a little research (read Starbucks' RESPONSIBILITY PAGE), refine your palate, go to a coffee shop that CARES and pay a teensy bit more for a damn good cup of coffee.

The problem of the bad barista is tricky.  One school of thought is just keep trying different places until you find one that gets it right.  The other school of thought is zero in on a business that has all the other things in place (ethically sourcing, proper freshness standards, etc.) and keep encouraging them to get better.  Get to know your barista and say things like, "I love the way you guys do espresso drinks- I think my foam gets better every day.  You can tell how much you guys care."  And please tip.  :)


3 comments:

  1. Can you come in a few weeks and show me how its done?

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  2. Great writeup on coffee. I wish you could get this published somewhere. I love talking to you about coffee and learning the intricacies of it. Wanna move to South America and start a coffee farm? We can smoke our pipes in the evening and work the fields by day. Think about it.

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  3. Do I get to come, Jeff? Or will this be a boy-trip? ;)

    ReplyDelete

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